Surfing

June 12, 2008

Sharks Invade Montauk!

Shark06 The Star Island Shark Tournament in Montauk is gearing up for a wild weekend! 

It's hard to rid my memory bank of the mechanical shark in Jaws every time I'm paddling out on a board.....seeing the real life sharks that lurk beneath the surface of some of my favorite beaches in Monauk may be too much reality for me though - could kill my surfing career!!

Yes, I'll be skippin' the surfing while the waters are being chummed up for all willing sharks who are being tempted to come out and play......instead, I'll be watching the protestors on dry land - too much fun to miss - energetic bunch that they are.

June 05, 2008

Doc Paskowitz's Surfwise and Jones Beach!

Paskowitz Surfwise is a documentary about Doc Paskowitz who gave up his lucrative career as a physician, packed up his 9 children and set out to surf the world.  How cool is that! 

I grew up as a "Jones Beach Lifeguard rugrat" - spent every day in the summer (rain or shine) chillin' out at the Beach and kickin' back with the other kids whose Dads (only 1 female guard at the time) were guarding the waters.  Things were totally different back then - Jones Beach was a safe, free environment where we could roam around at will and enjoy a life of sun, sand and wild adventures.  Our possee could enjoy any activity that presented itself at any given moment, no schedules, camps or rules for us.  Surfing with the guards, boating, swimming, bonfires at night, shark fishing and more fun than any kid could hope for.  Reggie Jones was a lifeguard then and is now the oldest lifeguard at the beach - he and Doc Paskowitz are similar characters, both found the fountain of youth hidden in the waves.  Both believe the best lessons in life are free and can't be taught in the classroom rather in the big blue Ocean. 

See Surfwise - you won't regret it!

May 13, 2008

Lord of the Flies and La Jolla Collide

Lajolla Gang Wars have erupted onto the waves of La Jolla, California. 

The Times reported that professional surfer Emery Kauanui Jr., was beaten to death by a group whose members call themselves "The Bird Rock Bandits".  Both Kaunaui Jr., and The Bandits frequented a popular break in Windansea Beach.  After a day on the water and a night of drinking at the local bar, Kanuai Jr., was left clinging to life (he died within a few days) and The Bandits charged with his murder. This "gang" of 5 surfing thugs young men from La Jolla, all in their 20's, are currently awaiting trial.  This new generation has begun to create a rip tide in the surfing community!

What ever happened to just "chillin' out"?!  Those lazy days of sun, surf & sand and being replaced with turf wars on the waves.  Retaliation for "stealin' a wave" is no longer an icy stare but a deadly beating!  I think it's time to give the younger surfing generation a major time out.

May 09, 2008

Snowboarding, Skiing and Surfing

Longboards Funny how our sports preferences date us......I love skiing while my children are obsessed with snowboarding.  On our last ski vacation I tried to bond with them and snowboard......I quickly returned to skiing.  When I forced the kiddies to strap on the skis in order for them to get the "proper" training, even the young ski instructors agreed that the future of my young children would more likely follow Jake Burton rather than Jean-Claude Killy!

I can't even begin to imagine the surfing conversations we will be having in the near future......shortboards vs. longboards!  Either way I'm happy as long as we're surfing and Yes, I am that old!!!  The new shortboards are cool, but longboards are even cooler and they make me stay in touch with my love of the sport.  I'm totally stoked right now that a surfing subculture that has been around for years is beginning to grow. So-called soul surfers, are picking up the old boards in an effort to retain the original spirit of surfing.